I thought I'd finished the blog but I have to write about this morning when we were leaving Denpasar.
About 10 minutes after take off, I said to Mum, looking out the window, "is that a volcano erupting?". She squashed me as she leaned off to look, then quickly went for her camera and told me to take some shots.
It was - a volcano erupting - Mt Raung, on the west coast of Java near Bali. Mum found out when we got to Singapore that flights had been cancelled from Bali this morning because of the volcanic ash so we were lucky to depart.
I will NEVER forget that Indonesia is on the ring of fire .. after seeing quite a few volcanoes, climbing an active one and then seeing one erupt.
Tonight in Singapore we caught up with close friends. Phoebe and Toby are the two kids who have known me longer than anyone. I met then the day after I returned to Singapore after Mum adopted me. We had a fun night at the Tanglin Club.
Now it's the end. We leave Singapore tomorrow night. Sydney and Term 3 ahead.
“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”
– Henry Miller.
AL Blog
Tuesday 30 June 2015
Seminyak and the END!
We fly back to Singapore tomorrow morning
after spending a day in Seminyak. It was completely different to anywhere else
I’ve been in the last 12 days, and I don’t think I would come to Seminyak
again. It was far too touristy, shops everywhere (I did look at a few!! .. and
am packing a few more things tonight!!!), bars and restaurants, and the only
people I passed in the street were Australians! Jalan Raya Seminyak was like
Warringah Mall without escalators or air con, just a very very long street of
shops!
AND the beach was awful, lined with pubs
and restaurants too with people spilling out to the sand, to sit on daybeds
they have to pay for! The natural environment was not important, which was
clear with the rubbish thrown into the sea. The tide had just gone out when we
walked and plastics were deposited as the sea withdrew.
Seminyak/ Legian beaches |
I saw a documentary exposing the damage
tourists are doing to Bali. It showed how the drainage and sewage system can’t
cope with the huge numbers, and how the focus on dollars is more important than
the environment. It was interesting shopping though, because NO shops gave
plastic bags, only paper ones which is more than happens in Sydney!
I did support the local industry though ... new aqua dress!
This my last night in Indonesia, we fly to
Singapore in the morning. Mum asked me tonight what my highlights were, and
they are:
·
snorkeling in the gilis
·
seeing so many turtles and dolphins in their natural habitat
·
climbing the volcano in the
dark, and sunrise from the top
·
cycling around the local area
(except not the mud!!)
·
staring out into the jungle
from our balconies and terraces soaking in nature
·
wandering around Ubud and its
surroundings, meeting local people and talking to them
When I come back (and I will), I will
definitely stay away from the tourist part where culture and the environment
are being invaded by insensitive people. The Balinese live with nature, it’s
part of their culture and beliefs. I love the offerings of thanks they give
every day, it’s good to stop and appreciate everything we get and give thanks.
Dolphins
We saw another sunrise but
this time from the Bali sea. We paddled out to the outrigger at 5.50am in the dark
and glided towards the sunrise and dolphin pods. More photos with sunrise
ambience!
Although I swam with a dolphin in Singapore
when I was 7 yo, this morning was even better because the dolphins were in
their natural habitat.
Mum and I talked about the comic scene when
a dolphin pod was spotted and all the tourist outriggers turned and motored
towards them. I don’t think the boats were menacing for the dolphins because
they didn’t have to be near us, they have a huge sea.
Dolphins are intelligent, and I think they
were playing with us, taunting us, and could even be laughing at stupid humans
chasing them all over the sea to spy them through camera lenses!
A scientist recently did MRI scans of
dolphins brains, and it proves that their brains are structured to all for
self-awareness (and complex emotions). The part of the dolphin brain associated
with processing emotional information is large.
And here's a video I took:
You might be wondering why I am laughing in
these photos. Well, it’s poor Mum with her lack of marine knowledge.
She
checked with me saying “dolphins don’t have spouts, do they?”. Yes they do, I told her,
and explained that they take deep breaths and can hold their breath for a long
time.
She then said “so they can’t
breathe under water?”. No Mum, they don’t have gills!
THEN, she asked, “I wonder where
do they lay their eggs?” Oh Mum ... blessed be thee, she didn’t know dolphins are
mammals! (Mum didn’t want me to write this in the blog, she SAYS she was tired
and she wasn’t thinking clearly!!!!).
Wallace Line
I've written this post over the last week, since we were in Lombok because I needed to do some research. It's about the Wallace Line, one of the reasons Mum wanted to take me to Lombok and Bali. There's a lot to read, so you don't have to, I did it because it will help me remember this trip, and about the Theory or Evolution - natural selection.
Alfred Russel Wallace
Alfred Russel
Wallace didn’t come from money or education like Charles Darwin yet he lived at
the same time –in the 1800s. Wallace was born in 1823, he left school when he
was 13, but read and read. He was a naturalist with a passion for understanding
how the different species developed. Wikipedia describes him as an naturalist,
explorer, geographer, anthropologist and biologist. Others add that he was a poet and a
spiritualist. He was a humble man.
Charles Darwin |
A bit about Charles Darwin
Admiral Phillip Parker KING |
Darwin left for
South America (esp Patagonia) in 1831 on the HMS Beagle, which was under the
command of Admiral Phillip Parker King (1791 – 1856) [the son of Australia’s 3rd Governor,
Governor Philip Gidley King (1758 – 1808)]. Darwin’s mid-shipman was Admiral King’s son
(also called Philip Gidley King (1817-1904) and Philip Gidley King’s
illustrations were used by Darwin. It was on this voyage that Darwin began to
form his theory of evolution. I write this because Governor King is my 7th
grandfather, Phillip Parker King is my 6th, and Philip Gidley
King is my 5th. It’s the reason my name is Apsara May KING Lindeman!
Alfred Wallace
was born in 1923 so he was younger when Darwin was on the HMS Beagle. Darwin
returned to England in 1840 but didn’t publish anything because he was still
wanting to document everything clearly so he had all the evidence to support
his theory. At the same time, Wallace was exploring, observing, discovering,
documenting and developing his own theories.
Back to Wallace
While Wallace
was still an apprentice, and a building surveyor he loved to spend his time
outdoors and reading books. Books in which he read were novels written by
Darwin of his travels around the world! Wallace became inspired by Darwin’s
travels, especially the Beagle voyage. Darwin was an inspiration to Wallace, and
he managed to save enough money for an expedition of his own to South America. Wallace
went to the Amazon when he was 21yo first and discovered new species, but on
the way back to London his boat caught fire and he lost all his specimens and
notes, four YEARS of his work was destroyed. BUT he didn’t give up, but decided
to start again and he travelled to the Malay Archipelago and Indonesia. He
didn’t have money backing him, so he funded his explorations by collecting
animals and selling them to museums in London, but this time he also collected
for himself.
The Malay archipelago - Wallace's map drawing |
Wallace spent his
days catching and shooting animals to observe in detail. He drew illustrations,
notated them all, he measured and weighed the animals, he even skinned them and
looked at their anatomy. He discovered species that were unlike any others
discovered, and were truly intriguing to him so he wrote in a journal of all
his observations. Mum has been reading Wallace’s book The Malay Archipelago which was printed in 1869. She’s been showing
me relevant sections from the book.
When he was
travelling through the Malay archipelago, he noticed there was a sharp
distinction between the western parts and the eastern parts even though there
was similar climate and terrain as they are both volcanic islands.
Sumatra and
Java were ecologically more like the Asian mainland, while Lombok, Sulawesi and
New Guinea were more like Australia. He especially saw a great contrast between
Bali and Lombok because they were so close. He saw marsupials like the tree kangaroo in Lombok which had only been seen in Australia. He saw the white crest
cockatoo on Lombok.
He wrote a letter from Lombok in 1856, which
said:
“The
islands of Bali and Lombok, though
of nearly the same size, of the same
soil, aspect, elevation and climate, and within sight of each other, differ considerably in their
animals. As an instance, I may mention the cockatoos, a group of birds confined
to Australia and the Moluccas, but quite unknown in Java, Borneo, and Sumatra;
one species (Plyctolophus sulphureus, the lesser sulfur crested cockatoo) is
abundant in Lombok but is unknown in Bali. The island of Lombok appears to form
the extreme western limit of the cockatoos range and that of the whole family.
Many other species illustrate the same fact, and I am preparing a short account
of them for publication”
Wallace noticed
a pattern in the distribution of fauna in the islands. Wallace was the first to
notice there was a biogeographic
boundary across the Lombok Strait and there was a striking difference
between animals of Indo-Malaysia and those from Australasia and that there was
a distinct definition between the two regions. This boundary is now called the Wallace Line.
Wallace thought
it was the depth of the Lombok Strait that kept animals on either side isolated
from one another. When sea levels dropped during the Pleistocene Ice Age, the
islands of Bali, Java and Sumatra were all connected to one another and to
mainland Asia, so they were mostly Asian fauna. The Lombok Strait was very
deep, so the islands (like Lombok, New Guinea, Sulawesi) were colonized by
Australasian fauna.
He wrote:
“the wide
expanse of sea which divides the islands of Java, Sumatra and Borneo from each
other is so shallow that ships can anchor in any part of it since it rarely
exceeds 40 fathoms in depth. And if we go as far as 100 fathoms we shall
include the Philippine islands Bali, east of Java”
He also wrote:
“it is well
known that the natural productions of Australia differ from those of Asia.
Australia in fact stands alone, it possesses no apes or monkeys, no tigers, no
elephant, no horse, no squirrel. Instead of these it has marsupials, only
kangaroos, opossoms, wombats and the duck-billed platypus. In birds it is
almost as peculiar. It has cockatoos, honeysuckers and the brush tongued
lorries which are found nowhere else across the globe. All these striking
peculiarities are found also in those islands”
“The great
contrast between the two divisions of the archipelago is nowhere so abruptly
exhibited as on passing from the island of Bali to that of Lombok where the two
regions are in closest proximity. In Bali we have barbets, fruit thrushes, and
woodpeckers; on passing over to Lombok these are seen no more but we have
abundance of cockatoos, honey suckers and brush turkeys which are equally
unknown in Bali or any island further west”
He also thought
that species survived better in environments because of their genes, and these
would reproduce more so the strong genes survived and adapted to the
environment. The weaker ones died off. It was survival of the fittest. This was
exactly what Darwin had discovered – the theory of evolution through natural
selection.
Wallace sent
his findings, with his observations, hypothesis and evidence, and an essay to
Charles Darwin (who he admired and looked up to) in London to ask his opinion.
When Darwin read Wallace’s theory he realized Wallace had the same one as his,
but Darwin hadn’t published his yet. So Darwin used Wallace’s essay (Wallace
collected over 120,000 specimens) and his own and presented a paper in 1858 –
with both their names. Wallace wasn’t told about it, because he was still in
Asia. In 1859 Darwin published On the
Origin of Species, with just his name, and this is who history remembers.
Lovina
Amazingly, we got upgraded to the family villa at Lovina. When I say a villa, I don't mean just one room and a pool, we got 3 bedrooms, 3 dining areas, 3 lounge areas, a garden, a playground and full view of the beach. AND, it's all open (except for the bedrooms) so it feels so open. (I actually couldn't find Mum!).
1. find the "apsara" |
2. find the "apsara" |
ok - there I am |
Then sunset from our beach door, with the moon almost full.
almost full moon |
Offerings and colour
Offerings
These are small
offering baskets called ‘canang sari ' that Balinese offer to their Gods
three times a day.
It’s basically a ritual of giving back what has been given to you by the Gods. It is
a sharing that is not based upon fear, but on gratitude to the richness of
life.
The offerings
appease the spirits and brings prosperity and good health to the family. It is
a duty and an honour at the same time, and for the Balinese it’s a very natural thing to do to maintain a good
relationship between people and spirits.
Balinese Hinduism
is strongly influenced by animism and naturalism, where the power of spirits
are in all objects and elements of life. All elements of nature are from the
supreme spirits.
Good spirits
are believed to reside in the mountains, whereas the seas are home to demons
and ogres. There are also the spirits of the dead.
Balinese
Hinduism revolves around having balance and harmony between the different
elements in life and the spirits in their afterlife. The balance in life comes
from a harmonious relationship between the spirits other human beings, and the
nature that surrounds us. Offerings are given to appease the gods three times a
day, they are footpaths, in restaurants, in bedrooms, in shops – a bit like
alters in Chinese homes.
And here are some other colours of Ubud
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